After a two-year absence from Cuba, my six-year-old son returned triumphant with the knowledge that a camera is always the best witness to the ebbs and flows of the “change without change” that defines Cuba. He also knew that there is nothing like the view and conversation one has from the front seat of one of Havana’s archetypical free-lance taxis. Havana, July 2016. Photograph by Elías García Guerra.
