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La Lucha [The Struggle]: Citizen Resistance, Government Recalcitrance (2000-2008)

  • “A Place where everything CANT happens”“A Place where everything CANT happens”

    When visiting Havana’s once-premier nightclub “Jazz Café” in the early 2000s, one wondered whether the typo in the Jazz Café’s paper placemats was intentional or not. Correctly translated, the slogan “Un lugar donde todo puede suceder” should have read “A ...

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  • History belongs to the tellerHistory belongs to the teller

    In the first ten years after Fidel Castro fell ill in 2006 and passed his command over Cuba to his brother Raúl Castro, publicly displayed signs like this—announcing a gallery show by artist Duvier del Dago—were as irreverent as they ...

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  • Gratitude, not powerGratitude, not power

    In the lead-up to what many watchful Cubans predicted would be the announcement of the death of 90-year-old Fidel Castro, the title of a summer 2016 exhibit at the Museum of the Revolution (in Cuba’s former Presidential Palace) succinctly reminded ...

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  • PIGS IN PRISON?PIGS IN PRISON?

    Perhaps one of the most common characteristics of life in Cuba under Communist Party rule might be its surreal quality. Until recently, when access to the internet dramatically changed citizens’ ability to judge truth from rumor (or fiction), the Cuban ...

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  • Weaponizing UnanimityWeaponizing Unanimity

    In the Special Period, most government propaganda signs seemed hypocritical because they insisted that Cuba had not adopted capitalism, that it was not experiencing an ideological crisis, and that it would never partner with foreign corporate capital to ensure the ...

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  • Fisherman on Havana’s MalecónFisherman on Havana’s Malecón

    While most fishermen say standing on the rocks below Havana’s sea wall at low tide is a more effective method for catching something to eat, this lone fisherman seemed content simply to try his luck from the wall itself. ...

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  • “Artisanal” open-air touring bus“Artisanal” open-air touring bus

    Made from a decommissioned shuttle that had once been used to take workers to a local factory in Soviet times, this open-air touring bus—whose roof was simply carved off—filled in to meet the normal requirements of the tourist industry. Not ...

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  • One-room rural schoolsOne-room rural schools

    Together with the once revered Soviet-funded healthcare system, the greatest victim of the Cuban government’s new budgetary priorities after adopting state capitalism in 1992 has been education. Schools in rural communities may have suffered less simply because the human investment ...

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  • Cuba’s Gone with the Wind fashion senseCuba’s Gone with the Wind fashion sense

    How can we explain the apparent return of 1950s Scarlett O’Hara ball gowns to Communist-ruled “socialist” Cuba in the early 2000s? For more than a decade, this was a top choice of fifteen-year-old girls in Havana with means. Posing girls ...

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  • Private SanctuariesPrivate Sanctuaries

    A common external feature of many homes in Cuban cities is the use of bricks, cement, and chain link fences to literally wall off intruding eyes and not simply discourage potential thieves. To foreign eyes, these efforts inexplicably destroy the ...

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  • Pay a Dollar, Ride a BullPay a Dollar, Ride a Bull

    This lovely beast is a living relic of Fidel Castro’s legendary quest to cross-breed Cuban cattle with Indian Cebu cows in the 1960s and 1970s. After nationalizing most dairy cows and confiscating the medium-size farms that produced milk and cheese ...

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  • Cuban BaptismCuban Baptism

    After decades of enforcing conformity to the ideals of atheism, the Cuban Communist Party decided to adopt secularity and allow, for the first time, even its own members to openly practice a religion. Because most Cubans had no knowledge of ...

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  • “Socialism is the only guarantee of being free and independent”“Socialism is the only guarantee of being free and independent”

    However, we might dispute the social gains that the Cuban government claimed its version of socialism achieved in its Soviet-sponsored age (1961-1991), today’s version of Cuban socialism is a far cry from guaranteeing anything. Schools not only continued to hemorrhage ...

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  • Fragile signs of fidelityFragile signs of fidelity

    A bulletin board in the doorway of this Committee for the Defense of the Revolution serves as a metaphor for the scorn with which most citizens regarded their local neighborhood surveillance units by the early 2000s. Hand-made “Post-Its”, all ...

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  • Sabrina’s “Spanish Dance” ClassSabrina’s “Spanish Dance” Class

    Before her father–an engineer and contract worker—found his way from Namibia to Spain and reclaimed his family, my goddaughter Sabrina attended a model government school in the Havana neighborhood of San Miguel de Padrón. Because the government often used the ...

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  • Downtown Pinar del Rio at duskDowntown Pinar del Rio at dusk

    The glow of a Cuban sunset illuminates the elaborate columned buildings lining the city of Pinar del Rio’s main street. Just getting off work, dozens of Cubans line up on both sides of the road, awaiting transportation—mostly on flat-bed trucks ...

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  • Family reunionFamily reunion

    When I returned to Cuba after a two-year hiatus in visits in 2011, my closest relatives like Tío Tiki confessed to having prepared themselves emotionally to never seeing me again. I had been the first person in my family to ...

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  • CARLOS III MARKET, A RELIC OF THE BATISTA ERACARLOS III MARKET, A RELIC OF THE BATISTA ERA

    Funded through government loans approved by the dictator Fulgencio Batista for his friends and cronies in the mid-1950s, the “Carlos III Market” represented the epitome of modernity. From the series, “La Lucha ”: Citizen Resistance, Government Recalcitrance ...

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  • TRIUMPH OF THE MIDDLEMENTRIUMPH OF THE MIDDLEMEN

    As documented in our first Fotodiario on the Special Period, artisans in Cuba were once relegated to selling their wares by hanging them from the handle bars of their bikes and riding past tourists on the beach in the hopes ...

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  • RAÚL CASTRO’S SHOOTING RANGESRAÚL CASTRO’S SHOOTING RANGES

    Few Cubans who experienced the first five years of the Cuban Revolution and Fidel Castro’s rule would forget the preponderance of guns. Uniformed and ununiformed revolutionaries exhibited waists strapped with pistols. Anti-aerial weapons stood guard alongside the Malecón. Everywhere young ...

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  • ICE FOR SALE—IN CUBA!ICE FOR SALE—IN CUBA!

    Needless to say, trying to maintain an ice-making and ice-selling business was unthinkable during the Special Period when electricity was as hard to come by as fresh fruit and nutritious, varied food. Perhaps one of the greatest barometers of economic ...

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  • Bacardí Corporation’s unmistakable bat:Bacardí Corporation’s unmistakable bat:

    Topping this building’s magnificent art deco turret is a bat, the symbol of the Bacardí family and Cuba’s oldest rum-making company, now headquartered in Puerto Rico. Built in the early 1930s, the twelve-story skyscraper symbolized an apex in the architectural ...

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  • Sabrina, Pionera de Martí:Sabrina, Pionera de Martí:

    Since the 1970s when Cuba more formally adopted the uniforms and practices of the Soviet Union’s Communist Pioneers, children in later years of primary school began to wear Stalin red kerchiefs and matching jumpsuits modeled after their Soviet counterparts. However, ...

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  • “Continuamos… [We continue]…”:“Continuamos… [We continue]…”:

    Painted by a local Committee for the Defense of the Revolution, this propaganda sign echoes dozens like it displayed across Cuba’s public landscapes. It refuses to admit opposition and insists that all Cubans agree: “We continue defending the Revolution.” In ...

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  • My family’s house near collapse:My family’s house near collapse:

    Found on Calle Virtudes, just steps away from the Hospital Hermanos Almejeira, my family’s home began to collapse under the weight of so many decades of neglect. It was not their fault. For three decades, Communist laws had criminalized the ...

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  • Comida exótica [Exotic food]:Comida exótica [Exotic food]:

    As I have learned from bringing more than 80 students to Cuba in the last twenty three years, Cubans who have spent the last sixty-plus years isolated from the corporate capitalist world of fast and processed foods can sometimes misinterpret ...

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  • Orchids, endemic to Cuba:Orchids, endemic to Cuba:

    More than two hundred species of orchids are endemic to Cuba, particularly Pinar del Río, the far western end of the island where any remaining patch of forest features them boldly. Although my extremely brown thumb has never managed to ...

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  • Homemade dulce de coco:Homemade dulce de coco:

    In the United States, even the most traditional Cuban cook rarely has at his/her disposal a grove of homegrown coconuts, let alone the knowledge (or even the machete required!) to prepare and grate them into the exquisite dessert called dulce ...

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  • Museo de los Comités de la Defensa de la RevoluciónMuseo de los Comités de la Defensa de la Revolución

    One of the major shocks of my return to Cuba in 2011 after a two-year hiatus was stumbling across this museum in honor of Cuba’s neighborhood surveillance squads. From the series, “La Lucha ”: Citizen Resistance, Government ...

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  • Samuel Weinstein’s Divine LoomSamuel Weinstein’s Divine Loom

    Samuel Weinstein was a religiously observant Jewish Cuban whose father had been an accountant on the sugar estate in the 1940s where his Spanish-born mother worked when Samuel was born. Although illegitimate, Samuel nonetheless benefitted from his father’s legal recognition ...

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