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Cambio sin cambio [Change without Change]: Cuba steps toward … and then away from a new future with the United States (2009 – 2016)

  • The End of the Endless MovieThe End of the Endless Movie

    For decades, elderly island Cubans have joked that they want to live long enough “to see the end of this endless movie”, referring to the dictatorship Fidel Castro built. This political cartoon, published by independent journalists whom the Cuban regime ...

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  • “Miguel Díaz-Canel, Get Out of Cuba”“Miguel Díaz-Canel, Get Out of Cuba”

    In March 2024, Yasmary González Martínez covered the front of her house with graffiti protesting the Cuban government and calling for its downfall. She also posted this picture of it on her Facebook page and resisted the demands of Cuban ...

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  • “We are happy here!”“We are happy here!”

    To my shock, the Cuban state recently revived the slogan that it launched in 1980 to discredit the political reasons that nearly 125,000 mostly young, working-class Cubans cited for fleeing Communism in the Mariel Boatlift. While occasionally this slogan peppered ...

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  • The (temporary) End of Tourist Apartheid!The (temporary) End of Tourist Apartheid!

    In 2008, the Cuban state finally ended the ban on the ability of Cuban nationals to stay in their own country’s hotels. From the series, “Cambio sin cambio ”: Cuba steps toward … and then away ...

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  • Handshaking with HistoryHandshaking with History

    I took this picture while watching a live televised broadcast of Nelson Mandela’s funeral on December 15, 2013. US President Barack Obama walked up to Raúl Castro and, shockingly, shook his hand! Almost exactly one year later, both would announce ...

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  • UF Gator Emily Snyder, Witness of HistoryUF Gator Emily Snyder, Witness of History

    Two years after visiting Cuba with a dozen fellow students as part of Prof. Guerra’s history class, Emily Snyder had joined Yale’s graduate program in Latin American history and was rapidly fusing scholarship with witnessing contemporary events. This picture commemorates ...

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  • Forest of FlagsForest of Flags

    Fidel Castro once ordered the erection of this stand of flag poles in the early 2000s to protest US foreign policy and block Cubans’ view of the US Embassy in Havana, known as the US Interests Section prior to President ...

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  • Cuba’s Greatest LibrarianCuba’s Greatest Librarian

    Dr. Araceli García Carranza, a beloved friend and legendary librarian, died in Havana in the first days of February 2026. Although she and her husband, fellow librarian Julito, left behind no children of their own, Araceli’s legacy lies in the ...

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  • José Martí: from Liberator to Informer?José Martí: from Liberator to Informer?

    For anyone familiar with the life and mission of Cuba’s nineteenth-century liberator and democrat José Martí, the idea that a Committee for the Defense of the Revolution would be named after him is as shocking as it is disturbing. ...

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  • “¿El último cliente?”“¿El último cliente?”

    On display at an Old Havana pharmacy is this nineteenth-century skeleton, standing upright in a box, next to a beautiful porcelain water distiller. Although visited by many tourists who find such displays quaint, this pharmacy is rarely stocked with the ...

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  • The Gorge of BacunayaguaThe Gorge of Bacunayagua

    The vistas offered from this famous bridge at Bacunayagua are hard to beat. However, it is difficult to ignore the stark reality behind the cheerful landscape of green: fertile fields lie fallow and stands of sugar cane, long abandoned by ...

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  • Padre de la Patria, Carlos Manuel de CéspedesPadre de la Patria, Carlos Manuel de Céspedes

    On October 10, 1868, sugar planter Carlos Manuel de Céspedes assembled his slaves before him and declaring them “citizens”, invited them to fight alongside him in a revolution for independence from Spain. In fact, de Cespedes never anticipated freeing all ...

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  • The Cathedral of Santiago de CubaThe Cathedral of Santiago de Cuba

    The Cathedral of Santiago de Cuba stands in the city’s center, a watchful and still grand witness to the struggles, dreams, and prayers of Cubans. Santiago de Cuba, 2016.

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  • Walking Around SantiagoWalking Around Santiago

    Like most first-time visitors to eastern Cuba, I was surprised at how mountainous and hilly the ancient colonial city of Santiago is. These stairs, built and restored many times since the city’s founding, ease the burden and prevent erosion and ...

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  • Havana from the HeavensHavana from the Heavens

    The sight of Havana from an approaching plane reveals the grids and patterns of historic urban planners. While the colonial quarter and iconic tourist hotels hug the coast, much of the interior combines the visions of 1940s and 1950s developers ...

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  • “My God is Real”“My God is Real”

    Raúl Castro’s legalization of hundreds of entrepreneurial jobs and services after 2009 gave their owners an unexpected canvas on which to display their personal slogans, rather than the Communist Party’s mantras, which pervade urban and rural landscapes. This bicitaxi [bicycle ...

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  • Storytime in CubaStorytime in Cuba

    Cubans’ national pastime is storytelling and talking—not baseball, in my view! Here, my son and his island cousins listen intently to UF Gator and now UC-Irvine professor of Caribbean History, Genesis Lara, as she prepares to read them a story ...

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  • Plaza de Armas, Santiago de CubaPlaza de Armas, Santiago de Cuba

    At the left of Santiago’s historic plaza stands the oldest building constructed by the Spanish in Latin America: the home of Cuba’s first Governor, Diego Velázquez. The house dates from 1515. Four years earlier, he had returned to the island, ...

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  • “We Continue to Defend the Revolution”…Really?“We Continue to Defend the Revolution”…Really?

    For decades now, Communist Party slogans like this one have been plastered on city walls and maintained by a local Committee for the Defense of the Revolution. Since 2019, when Raúl Castro yielded the top civilian posts of rule to ...

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  • Forest of Flag PolesForest of Flag Poles

    Built to block the façade of the US Interests Section (now recast as the US Embassy), the “forest of flags” Fidel Castro had erected in 2006 had become a forest of empty flag poles ten years later. Black in color ...

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  • Driving on the MalecónDriving on the Malecón

    Taken from a bike, this Sunday afternoon scene on Havana’s main thoroughfare captures the traffic-free, slower pace of life and breeze-cooled beauty of El Malecón, the long sea wall that defines this city. Havana, 2016.

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  • Lessons in DanceLessons in Dance

    Ready to take the stage by storm, sisters Alicia and Isabela pose in their formal costumes for a recital at the Sociedad Cultural Rosalía de Castro, which operates a restaurant but also offers Spanish dance classes to Cubans of all ...

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  • Fans of CubaFans of Cuba

    Whenever I visited my goddaughters Isabela and Alicia at the height of summer, playing dress-up and putting on makeup always required cranking up the “manual AC”, that is, a locally crafted and painted Cuban fan. Made to be used and ...

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  • Gato Tuerto (One-Eyed Cat)Gato Tuerto (One-Eyed Cat)

    This intimate nightclub, a place where local Cubans always outnumbered tourists in the pre-1959 era, is located directly across from Havana’s famed Hotel Nacional. While researching my book on the 1940s and 1950s, I could not resist witnessing its late-night ...

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  • Crystal ClearCrystal Clear

    The waters of Playa Girón, in south-central Cuba, remain crystal clear and free of government-led capitalist development, thanks in large part to their historic importance to the early Cuban Revolution’s quest for sovereignty from the United States: here, in mid-April ...

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  • Hidden TreasureHidden Treasure

    This extraordinary painting remains ensconced in the former residential quarters of the Troilet Pharmacy, now a government-owned museum in the city of Matanzas. For more than a century, the Troilets operated a world-class dispensary on the main plaza of the ...

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  • AN EGYPTION MUMMY IN A CUBAN MUSEUMAN EGYPTION MUMMY IN A CUBAN MUSEUM

    In 1912, Emilio Bacardí Moreau, a son of the founder of the Bacardí Rum Company, launched a personal expedition to Europe and the Middle East for the purchase of numerous antiquities, in particular an authentic Egyptian mummy (and original sarcophagus) ...

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  • “IN SEARCH OF AN ANCIENT LAND”“IN SEARCH OF AN ANCIENT LAND”

    Conceived a full decade before the discovery of Tutankhamen’s tomb, the display of a real Egyptian mumy and related funerary artifacts surely bolstered the prestige and financial security of the historical museum as its founder Emilio Bacardí Moreau (1844-1922) intended. ...

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  • Cuba’s Very Public TelephonesCuba’s Very Public Telephones

    Could the notable absence of a booth in telephones that Cuban engineers designed during the 1970s and 1980s say something about the general absence of privacy in a socialist society under Communist rule? I might never have considered that question ...

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  • A Cuban-Mexican Joint VentureA Cuban-Mexican Joint Venture

    Amidst the collapse of the Soviet bloc between 1989-1993, the Cuban state shocked the world (and perhaps its own citizens the most) by announcing the legalization of neoliberal-style investment between agencies of the Cuban government and foreign companies. ETECSA, a ...

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