In the United States, even the most traditional Cuban cook rarely has at his/her disposal a grove of homegrown coconuts, let alone the knowledge (or even the machete required!) to prepare and grate them into the exquisite dessert called dulce de coco. In my cousin Javier’s house, however, there is knowledge to spare. Made by Dianek, my comadre, this large pot of dulce coco has a slightly smoked flavor, laced into the cooking syrup by natural, hardwood charcoal and cinnamon sticks that I “imported” to the island from my local grocery with every visit since any spice (local or foreign) is almost impossible to find, especially in the provinces. Puerta de Golpe, Pinar del Río, March 2013.
